Irani cafes are Iranian-style cafes in South Asia. They were originally opened by Zoroastrian Irani immigrants to modern India and Pakistan in the 19th century. Today, Hyderabad boasts the largest number of Irani cafés, which are very popular for Irani chai (tea). Younger Iranis with higher education and better skills have become interested in more lucrative vocations in India and abroad, and they do not wish to carry on with the legacy of the Irani cafés of their parents. In the 1950s, there were 350 Irani cafés; today, only 25 remain. One of the most popular eating places is the 102-year-old Kyani Café, a heritage landmark in south Mumbai.
Journalist Sarika Mehta describes them: "The classic format of these cafes is basic with a subtle colonial touch; high ceilings with black, bent wooden chairs (now cane in some cafes), wooden tables with marble tops and glass jars that allow a peek into the goodies they hold. With huge glass mirrors on the walls to create a feeling of space, visitors are greeted with eagerness and a whiff of baking. The speed of operations is impressive and service quite hassle-free."
Video Irani café
Fare
Mumbai cafés may serve 'bun maska' (bread and butter) and 'paani kam chai' (a strong Iranian tea), or khari chai (very strong tea), mutton samosas, and Kheema Pavs, akuri, berry pulao, vegetable puff, vegetarian/chicken Dhansak (a spicy broth with lentils, pulses) and Biryani, cherry cream custard, cheese khari biscuits, plain khari biscuits, coconut jam and milk biscuits and Dukes Raspberry drink. The Parsi Bhonu (meal) is available at most Irani restaurants.
Many Irani cafes offer sweet and salted biscuits like Rawa (semolina), Til Rawa Coconut, nan-khatai (sweet, crisp flaky Irani biscuits), Madeira-Cake (tutti-frutti biscuits).
Writing for the Hindu Business Line, on "Mumbai's Irani hotspots", Sarika Mehta stated, "The classic format of these cafes is basic with a subtle colonial touch; high ceilings with black, bent wooden chairs (now cane in some cafes), wooden tables with marble tops and glass jars that allow a peek into the goodies they hold. With huge glass mirrors on the walls to create a feeling of space, visitors are greeted with eagerness and a whiff of baking. The speed of operations is impressive and service quite hassle-free."
Maps Irani café
Cultural references
Nissim Ezekiel wrote a poem based on instruction boards found in his favourite Irani café; the now defunct Bastani and Company, in Dhobi Talao, Mumbai.
Footnotes
Further reading
- India's Iranian cafes fading out by Jayshree Bajoria for BBC News, Mumbai
- Mumbai's Irani hotspots - Sarika Mehta in Hindu Business line
- AOL News Blog - Sunanda Sudhir
External links
- Irani Cafés and Bakeries - An Irani Zartoshti Tradition
Source of article : Wikipedia
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